New Year’s Eve Oyster Chowder

Patrick McMurray, Starfish Oyster Bed & Grill, Toronto

Oysters Farmed: Best choice; Wild: Some concerns

• 3 large potatoes, peeled and diced
• 2 Tbsp + 1 tsp butter
• 6 stalks celery, finely chopped
• 4 shallots, minced
• 12 large oysters, shucked
• 4 cups whole milk
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 2 slices extra-thick, double-smoked bacon, diced
• 24 small oysters, such as a mix of small Hardy’s and Royal Malpeque, shucked
• 12 panko-crusted oysters (page 134), for garnish

In a large saucepan on medium-high heat, boil potatoes in salted water until fork tender, about 5 minutes. Drain well, then set aside.

In another large saucepan set on low heat, melt the 2 Tbsp of butter. Add celery and shallots and sauté, without browning, until soft and shallots are translucent, about 10 minutes. Place the 12 large oysters on top of the celery mixture. Increase the heat to medium, cover, and cook (don’t stir) for 5 minutes, or until the edges of the oysters ruffle like a tuxedo shirt. Using a slotted spoon, transfer oysters to a bowl and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add milk and cream to the celery mixture and heat through, being careful not to boil. Return the cooked oysters to the saucepan and add 1 cup of the cooked potatoes. Using a hand blender, purée the soup until smooth.

Line a plate with a paper bag. Heat a heavy frying pan on medium heat. Add bacon and fry until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using tongs, transfer bacon to the plate to drain.

Melt the 1 tsp of butter in a large saucepan on medium-low heat. Add the 24 small oysters, cover and cook until oysters ruffle and are just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the soup and the remaining potatoes and heat through, being careful not to boil the chowder.

TO SERVE Divide the chowder among six warmed bowls, ensuring that the oysters are evenly distributed. Sprinkle each serving with bacon and garnish with two panko-crusted oysters.

Serves 6

Shrimp, Shiitake, and Cucumber Salad with Basil–Coconut Milk Dressing

Marc De Canck, Restaurant La Chronique, Montreal

Shrimp Trap-caught: Best choice; Trawled: Some concerns; Warm-water: Avoid

• 2 tomatoes
• 4 Tbsp olive oil
• 12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1 tsp celery salt
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 10 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and caps minced
• 1 English cucumber, peeled and julienned
• 4 Tbsp mirin (Japanese rice wine)
• 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
• 16 fresh Thai basil leaves, washed and dried
• 2 small handfuls fried vermicelli noodles

Fill a medium bowl with ice water and set aside. Fill a small saucepan three-quarters full with water and bring to a boil on high heat. Using a sharp knife, cut an X in the bases of the tomatoes, then submerge them in the boiling water for 5 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer tomatoes to the bowl of ice water until cool enough to handle. Peel and discard the skins. Cut tomatoes in half, scoop out and discard the seeds, then chop the flesh into a small dice. Set aside.

In a large frying pan, heat olive oil on high heat. Add shrimp and sauté for 30 seconds per side. Season with celery salt and black pepper, then transfer the shrimp to a large bowl. Reduce the heat to medium.

Place mushrooms in the frying pan and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in cucumber, tomatoes, mirin, and coconut milk and cook for about 3 minutes, or until warmed through. Remove from the heat and pour over the shrimp. Gently stir in 12 of the basil leaves.

TO SERVE Divide the fried noodles between two plates, then top each serving with six shrimp and half the dressing. Garnish with the reserved basil leaves. Serve immediately.

Serves 2